The Hague

I found myself spending a few days in the Hague for a conference and some research team meetings, and I have to say that I found it an absolutely charming city. The buildings, the canals, the sense of spaciousness in the streets coupled with the coziness of the shops and restaurants, and most of all the cheerfully helpful people, have convinced me that this is a city worth revisiting.

Everything on wheels
One thing that I did have to get used to was the close proximity of wheeled and pedestrian traffic. It is not unusual to find yourself sharing a few meters of what I would normally consider walking surface with a tram, a couple of cars, and ten women on bicycles. The cyclists in particular reminded me of their sisters in Copenhagen, each one a picture of the well-groomed professional on a sensible bike with a basket, going hell bent for leather past my elbow.

The girl with a pearl earring
The Mauritshuis art gallery, although unpronounceable by mortal tongues, does have a marvelous collection of Rembrandt, Steen, and Vermeer, including the famous girl with a pearl earring. In the gift shop, you can buy her on any number of items for around the house, including the usual postcards and coasters and keychains, but also an umbrella, a wristwatch, a box of wooden matches, and soap. Richard and I visited the place twice, applying our close scrutiny to the many details of Jan Steen’s paintings, which to my mind are in the same category as William Hogarth. We also joined Ruskin in subjecting to our critical judgment the many paintings involving water.

God of 5s
I was pleased to learn that the Hague was home to M.C. Escher (1893-1972), familiar to anyone who has ever bought a poster as the guy responsible for drawing hands, the 2D lizards who walk off the page, and an impossible set of staircases. I have a soft spot for him because I once took a senior math class in symmetry, where I painted a couple of tiled planes. I was particularly fond of one of them, which featured coelecanths and toucans, because I thought it combined one of the shiest creatures with one of the most flamboyant. It marks my only real commercial success as a painter, since my prof purchased it at the end of the term and hung it up behind the registration desk in the Math Dept. In any case, the Hague has an entire art gallery dedicated to Escher, with three floors packed full of prints of all kinds, as well as a few sketches and some sculptures. He had apparently once mentioned that some of the images should be read as small movies, so they also had digital films that people had made. On the fourth floor, there were a number of optical illusions, including a distorted room that made people look bigger and smaller than they are.

A Winter Wonderland
I woke up on my last morning here only to find that the night had brought a seriously heavy snowfall. It reminded me of Balgonie in some ways, with all the trees piled with snow and the snow on the ground up to your knees, when the night before there had been clear paving stones. I got to see a little toddler chortling with each step she took on the ice, clearly saying to her mother how interesting it was to try this out. There were also kids out sledding in the country, and ducks on the canal, standing around waiting for the water to open up again. Unfortunately, it also meant that the trains were shutting down and the flights back to Greece were being cancelled.